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A lot of things have changed in downtown Royal Oak since the first time I visited at the impressionable age of 13. I remember there were quirky shops (Cat’s Meow, anyone?), amazing Tex-Mex (Monterey Cantina forever), and, of course, the Royal Oak Brewery. Now that I’m old enough to properly enjoy a beer at this stories brewery, I can fully appreciate its presence in the Royal Oak community.

There’s something to be said about sticking with what works. The Royal Oak Brewery still has most of the same beers available when I first visited, which was during the Bush Administration (George W., not H.W. I’m not THAT old). Over time, there have been experiments, additions and subtractions, but it gives me great comfort to know that I can come to this brewery, order a beer, and know that it will still be available years later. My usual pour? The incredible, true-to-style Northern Kölsch.

Let me pause for a moment and declare my love of Kölsch. I seek Kölsch beers out when I visit breweries, order at a bar, or am shopping for beer at a store. I love it so much that I reserve the right to be picky about what flavors and ingredients should or should not be in a Kölsch. I’m a purist, and I believe the German original from Cologne or Köln is the benchmark by which all Kölsch beers should be measured. For me Royal Oak’s brew hits that mark every time.

One cannot visit the Royal Oak Brewery without appreciating the vision of head brewer, Jeremy Altier. In his five years at the brewery, Jeremy has not only crafted creative and bold new beers, but has also upheld and elevated the beers that put the brewery on the map. For him, Northern Kölsch will never leave the menu. I recently visited the brewery and spoke with Jeremy about this beer.

What is so special about this Kölsch? The recipe has been handed down from brewer to brewer over the brewery’s 25 year history. Keeping the beer true-to-style has always been important to the Royal Oak Brewery and to Jeremy. While he understands the necessity of experimentation and evolution, he also believes that Kölsch beers cannot exist without a strong foundation. He also said it’s one of the hardest beer styles to make and any flaw or mistake no matter how tiny it is cannot be hidden under other flavors. While that may seem like a lot of pressure, Jeremy and the Royal Oak Brewery are up to the challenge.

Enjoyed with the man himself, Jeremy Altier, at our own table in the taproom during a freak thunderstorm outside.

Northern Kölsch is so beloved it even has its own celebration in the form of “Kölsching Hour” every few months at the brewery. Just as in the German tradition, 7 ounce glasses of Kölsch are served to patrons and a mark is made on a coaster each time one is handed over. No one has to signal for another as the serves just come around and replace any empty glasses with a full one. At the end, the marks on the coasters are tallied up and the bill is presented. My personal record during a “Kölsching Hour” is 13 glasses. I’m absurdly proud of this. It’s yet another testament to how delicious and easy drinking this 4.2% ABV beer is.

It’s hard to believe the Royal Oak Brewery has been around for 25 years! With one sip of the Northern Kölsch, I can taste exactly why the brewery has been able to maintain such a presence in the Michigan craft beer community. Though I can’t quite remember my own quarter-century birthday, I’m so glad I’m able to celebrate with this incredible local standard.

Disclaimer: Thank you, Jeremy, for providing the beer for this review.


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